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A Unique Pilgrimage – Visit to Shanti Ashrama, San Antonio Valley, California

Mrinalini Appadurai     

[On 22 October 2022 during the San Jose leg of the USA Sadhana Shibiram, Nutan Swamiji and a small group of devotees visited Shanti Ashrama, upon the invitation of Tattwamayananda Swamiji, Minister-in-Charge of Vedanta Society of Northern California (San Francisco). This holy place had been read about and often pictured by Ma and Nutan Swamiji. The visit was a unique experience that will always be treasured, and we feel blessed to share some snapshots…]

“Great Saints of the world have walked on these floor-boards!” declared Vedananda Swamiji ebulliently, his arms raised. We were in the sacred cottage on sacred ground, which once housed the shrine of Sri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa, Sarada Devi and Swami Vivekananda – the First Hindu shrine in America.

***

Nutan Swamiji first visited the Vedanta Society of Northern California (San Francisco) in 2015, then again in early 2019. There he met Tattwamayananda Swamiji, the Minister-in-Charge, and Vedananda Swamiji, an American Sannyasin of the Centre. After the 2019 GBGC in San Jose (where Tattwamayananda Swamiji was invited as the Chief Guest who officially released Poojya Swamiji’s ‘Insights into Bhagavad Gita’), Poojya Swamiji, Nutan Swamiji and Ma together visited the Vedanta Society in San Francisco. Talks of an excursion to Shanti Ashrama were initiated then. However, global pandemic prevented all travel for the next two years. Meanwhile Tattwamayananda Swamiji who hails from Thrissur, had visited our Ashram in November 2019 to see Poojya Swamiji.                       

***

We had set off in two cars to Shanti Ashrama from Nilesh’s home in Brentwood. Nutan Swamiji, Nilesh, Malaji, Natarajanji, Yogesh, Vyomesh and his wife Ashwathy, and myself. Along the way we drove past gently rolling brown hills with pristine white windmills against azure sky. The blades of the windmills looked like ballerina legs with pointy toes, their graceful rotations giving the feeling of moving in slow-motion. First stop was Livermore, around 23 miles away, where we would be joined by the third car bringing Tattwamayananda Swamiji and Vedananda Swamiji, for a unique pilgrimage.

***

Vedananda Swamiji walks slowly, slightly stooped, but with confidence. His words are clear, carrying a note of humour. Attempts to understand his actual age proved futile – “I was here at the start of Creation!” – but we know his body must be in its 80s. Fiercely independent, he rebuffed all well-intentioned offers to help him. Later we would discover that he drives himself almost everywhere, and is the one who gives detailed guided tours of Shanti Ashrama, Vedanta Society’s Old Temple in San Francisco, and Olema Retreat (an event organised by Vedanta Society).

***

The drive was an experience. Breathtaking scenery of the mountains with clear blue skies. Road was long and winding. Many hairpin bends, narrow roads with sharp drops into deep ravines.

We come to a gate – big and heavy with many locks. Vedananda Swamiji gets down from the car, walks slowly towards the gate, and begins unlocking. Once again refusing any offer of assistance. We drive in, he locks the gate and gets in. We drive through almost barren land. Even the trees look dry and sparse. We come to a second gate. Same process. But this time we have arrived.

***

Tattwamayananda Swamiji goes ahead with Shankarji (their devotee who drove them) to ensure the meditation cottage is ready for visitors. Nutan Swamiji and Vedananda Swamiji are deep in conversation, the rest of us stand at various spots, soaking in the deep, intense vibrations of austerity, sacrifice and love for the Ultimate Knowledge that made this place holy and historical.

***

This land of 160 acres had been offered by an American devotee, Ms Minnie Boock, to Swami Vivekananda while he was in America disseminating Vedantic Knowledge. Swami Turiyananda was sent by Swami Vivekananda from India, to stay here and create a place of spiritual grounding for the people of this country. Swami Turiyananda arrived in 1900 with a small group of students, and slowly made the place habitable – setting up tents, kitchen and dining room, cabins and outhouses. Even now there is no electricity or running water supply. Most of the structures were razed by a roaring fire in 1952. However, the small meditation cottage housing the shrine was saved.

***

As we walk towards the cottage, seeing Tattwamayananda Swamiji standing at the doorway causes a lump in the throat. Is this what it would have been like when seekers of that time walked towards the cottage while Swami Turiyananda was there? Sight of the Saint standing, welcoming, at the lone simple white cabin in the barren space framed by Chapparal and Oak trees, with the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the distance, against the autumn blue skies with soft white clouds – a scene that is unlikely to fade from memory.

***

It was Ma who was most eager for us to make this trip. Planning had begun long before Nutan Swamiji arrived in USA – many long phone conversations with Tattwamayananda Swamiji discussing logistics and the like. Ma had spent much time in her earlier years immersed in the writings by and about Swami Turiyananda and other great Saints. She had vivid impressions of Shanti Ashrama in her mind – its sublimity, austerity, and dedication.

***

Vedananda Swamiji points out some nails in the floorboards that identified the original planks of the meditation cottage. He and Tattwamayananda Swamiji tell us about the history of the place. Swami Turiyananda had been greatly helped by an American Brahmacharin of Dutch origin, Gurudas (who would later become Swami Atulananda). After Swami Turiyananda returned to India, Gurudas took care of the whole place, remaining mostly alone until Swami Trigunatitananda came to run the Ashram, conducting intensive spiritual retreats. The last resident Swamiji in Shanti Ashrama was Swami Prakashananda, who continued to hold regular retreats for serious spiritual aspirants until he dropped his body in 1927.

***

Simple wooden chairs have been made available for the three Swamijis, and greyish-blue mats as asanas for the rest of us. Vedananda Swamiji is concerned about where we would sit, that our white dresses should not get stained. We are captivated by his gentle humour and quiet energy, and charged by the obvious love and reverence both he and Tattwamayananda Swamiji have for the trailblazing Saints who had laid the path before us!

***

Tattwamayananda Swamiji suggests we all sit in meditation for some time. Rays of sunlight shine through the rustic interior of the wooden cabin, creating a divine glow over the three Saints. We arrange ourselves around them. Through the windows beautiful trees are seen, beyond them the vast expanse of the land. Eyes close. The mind is transported back to a time of simple, sincere striving and sacrifice, and gets absorbed into silence…

***

We walk around a bit, seeing some of the cottages that survived the devastating fire. Both parties brought snacks for the trip. Nobody from our group feels particularly like eating, our hosts insist that we do. Nutan Swamiji tries to politely present his arguments for not eating. Shankarji politely declares that such  austerities are not necessary. Graciously acquiescing, we munch on our snacks, while Tattwamayananda Swamiji continues giving us further insights into this powerful place.

“Can you imagine,” he says, “the challenges Swami Turiyananda and the others faced? The long journey from India to America, and further arduous journey through this terrain. Coming to a completely foreign and unfamiliar land where there was absolutely nothing, and building the first Hindu Ashrama in this country.”

The commitment of the seekers with Swami Turiyananda, who gave up all their creature comforts and endured such hardship because they understood there was a far greater goal. The blessedness they would have felt being in the company of such a spiritual giant. Tears fall as we are taken back to that time by Swamiji’s emotion-rasped voice. “Can you imagine,” he says, “an Indian monk in this country more than a hundred years ago, sitting under an oak tree, teaching the purest most ancient Indian scriptures to a group of Americans?”

***

The trip is almost at its end. Tattwamayananda Swamiji informs us that every year a one-day retreat is held, where devotees gather at Shanti Ashrama, bringing all essentials. The full- day programme consists of prayers at the shrine, bhajans, talks and a complete guided tour of Shanti Ashrama (conducted by Vedananda Swamiji, of course). He heartily invites members of our group living in the Bay Area to attend next year’s function, which will be held on the last Saturday of April. All are touched by the simplicity, earnestness of Tattwamayananda Swamiji. As we prepare to depart, our hearts and minds are filled with gratitude for this humbling and enriching experience. And many of us have the same thought – Ma should have been here.

***

As we snake our way back down the mountain roads, one wonders what would have been in the minds of Swami Turiyananda and his group, travelling in horse carts through the wilderness, not knowing what was in store for them. Relying fully on Guru and Providence, Swami Turiyananda and the great Masters after him, came with the aim of awakening people to the power of their own inmost spirit, and alleviating their suffering. Armed with the strength and courage of inner spiritual wisdom, they brought spiritual evolution to people of the New World.

***

One scene remains etched in memory. Nutan Swamiji, Tattwamayananda Swamiji and Vedananda Swamiji sitting silently inside the cottage, facing the shrine. Eyes closed, deep in absorption. Feeling divine spiritual vibrations of past and present. Nutan Swamiji coming out of meditation, wiping away tears. Even today, great Saints of the world continue to walk on those floorboards.

“We were in the sacred cottage on sacred ground, which once housed the shrine of Sri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa, Sarada Devi and Swami Vivekananda – the First Hindu shrine in America.”

“As we walk towards the cottage, seeing Tattwamayananda Swamiji standing at the doorway causes a lump in the throat. Is this what it would have been like when seekers of that time walked towards the cottage while Swami Turiyananda was there?”

“The commitment of the seekers with Swami Turiyananda, who gave up all their creature comforts and endured such hardship because they understood there was a far greater goal. The blessedness they would have felt being in the company of such a spiritual giant.”

“Tears fall as we are taken back to that time by Swamiji’s emotion-rasped voice. “Can you imagine,” he says, “an Indian monk in this country more than a hundred years ago, sitting under an oak tree, teaching the purest most ancient Indian scriptures to a group of Americans?””

“Relying fully on Guru and Providence, Swami Turiyananda and the great Masters after him, came with the aim of awakening people to the power of their own inmost spirit, and alleviating their suffering.”

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